You are still not giving the necessary info for correct advice to be based on.

The TOTAL POWER load will determine the size of inverter.  Add up the running power load of each of the appliances.

Next determine how long the inverter must supply power between battery charges.   This determines how BIG & how MANY batteries are required.   … I suspect this will be cost prohibitive as already stated above.

The question about running your truck depends on the size of the truck’s alternator.    You might be able to change the alternator to a ‘high output’ (250 amp /300 amp) alternator.  BUT, the cost of the alternator ($800 to $1200), you may as well buy and use a generator set.   … This are less expensive to repair or replace than you truck engine.

Anyway, you still need to add up the power required by each appliance to decide anything about power supply.

I checked into this and decided it was not worth it.  As long as your cold food does not go above 41 degree for 4 hrs before being brought back down under 41 degrees with in 4 hrs it will be safe.  Say your transit time is 2 hrs one way.  Your cold food may go above 41 degrees 45 minutes to 1 hour into your commute.  So it then stays above 41 degrees for about an hour.  You then set up, get generators going and begin cooling down food.  That should take about a half hour to bring your temps back down.  So theoretically your food is only in the danger zone for at most 1.5 hrs.  You have a 4 hour window before food is deemed unsafe and you must throw it out.  And this scenario is worst case.  I doubt it is even in the window that long.  My longest commute is 1 hr and I never have an issue.  

These temps and time frames are how it is in my state (Oklahoma).  They may differ for you.

Theoretically yes, realistically no. The current draw for the things you listed would be huge because what is 10A at 120v would be 100A @ 12v. You could feasibly run your reefer and freezer between stops but to try and run your entire kitchen would require a huge investment in inverters and batteries.

I’m considering something similar. I’d also like to run off batteries while driving or breaks between meal times, but I’m thinking it could be more cost effective also.

Batteries are expensive. I’m figuring $2100. But gas is expensive also, and if my numbers are right, I can save $3000+ per year in fuel.

See my post : Electric Power Design Idea and let me know what you think.

But how long will the batteries last before being replaced?    I’ll bet for heavenly used battery & loads you will be buying new ones every 12 months or less.    

How long are you planning on having the inverters/batteries power your appliances in between stops/in transit?  If you’re looking to to keep things running for 20 minutes (maybe even an hour or so, realistically longer) it might not be worth any of this.

Commercial fridges, freezers, etc. are well insulated.  Fact of the matter being they can easily handle a little bit of time not running.  I’ve checked cooler temps across 20 minute drives and 2 hour drives and as long as ambient temp is normal (ish) and they stay closed they hold their temps VERY well.  Even after 2 hours temps of food stuffs are close to were they should be and are back to being the perfect temp within 30 minutes of run time (on the generator once we’re stopped and setup).  Yes fuel is expensive and better generators are even more but batteries and inverters can have their own challenges that could easily outweigh their benefit.

All a matter of what you’re trying to accomplish.  If you’re just trying to keep things cold while on the move don’t sweat it.  If you’re trying to power everything using inverters and batteries then its a different stories.  Inverting energy isn’t necessarily efficient.  Generators are great as they’re made to put out the energy they produce.  Inverters have to take 12 volts of direct current power and change that to 120 volts of alternating current.  They work great but aren’t nearly as efficient as a direct power source

….

Battery life: Good deep cycles are usually expected to last 5-7-10 years, though i really don’t know how vibration from driving will affect that. The higher end Gel/AGM batteries are made to handle more vibration, but cost more.

This is a PR statement by manufactures based on NOT discharging the battery less than 50% of its capacity (DOD), intermittent use, AND with proper maintenance & recharge.    A battery that is continually discharged to 20% will have less than half of that life.  While the statement is true, the battery manufacture is banking on the consumer NOT understanding what is being said.

A battery’s life is more accurately defined by the number of cycles of discharge/recharge AND the depth of discharge.  Manufactures have graphs showing the battery life & preformance by cycles vs depth of discharge.   The average ‘good’ golf cart battery life is 225 cycles @ 80% DOD or 750 cycles @ 50% DOD.   With intermittent used the life of these batteries would be 3 to 7 years.

BUT, your use is DAILY!   Your battery life can be accurately defined in DAYS (cycles).  Which would be less than one year at 80%  DOD (about 30 to 60 days @ 5% DOD)  to 2 years at 50% DOD.  Based on 225 & 750 cycles as a standard.  There are other factors which greatly effect the performance of batteries too. 

Since you haven’t given the specific battery model, I can’t look up the specific performance data.

You first need to add up the running power req’d for each of the appliances.   It is listed on their labels/tags.  Then add about 25% to the total.

Yes-good deep cycle batteries will last a very long time but you’re going to be greatly draining and recharging these constantly.  It would be so hard to maintain their charge when pulling so many amps and their life will be drastically cut short.  Not sure how but it will definitely be affected.

I could be wrong but there doesn’t seem to be a lot of people using this type of setup for their day to day service.  Plenty of people run this setup for their transit to and from locations but it takes a large investment in batteries and inverters large enough to power everything, the batteries weigh a ton and there seems to be a fair amount ongoing investment with the batteries.

If you want clean, efficient power I would definitely look into a slow turning diesel generator.  Next would be a propane genny that is a bit more inefficient but super quiet and clean.  And honda generators are great for gas options.

For foodiefiction I’ll add that in my experience cheap inverters are not worth the money. They won’t last and you whole house of cards comes down when they die. Additionally, I would get an inverter rated 25-50% higher than what you expect to use most of the time. You want to run them below their capacity for longer life and heat issues.

Make sure you provide airflow for the inverter and vent the battery compartment. Deep cycles gas when charging and discharging

I’m considering something similar. I’d also like to run off batteries while driving or breaks between meal times, but I’m thinking it could be more cost effective also.

Batteries are expensive. I’m figuring $2100. But gas is expensive also, and if my numbers are right, I can save $3000+ per year in fuel.

See my post : Electric Power Design Idea and let me know what you think.

The a/c is the problem in trying to run off inverters and batteries. With some creative switching on and off of equipment you can do amazing things. An a/c will wreck the whole set up.

@fiscale28: “batteries and inverters can have their own challenges that could easily outweigh their benefit.”

(not sure how people do the quote thing on here …)

This is really what I’m looking for from some one with battery/inverter experience. What are the challenges I’m likely to run into? I’d really like to know before jumping into the pool 🙂

Thanks

There is more info on what I’m considering in my post: Electric Power Design Idea

As far as run time, battery and fridge specs calculate to 4-5 hours actual run time (so longer with intermittent use).

That’s based on prep table at 6amps using four 120amp hour 12v batteries. The 120 is the 5 hour run time (20 hour is 150ah).  This is also figuring in my experience that they never quite seem to give the output they are rated for 🙂

I’m aware of the conversion loss. I’ve forgotten the figure, but I think it’s around 7%.

Running o0ff generator is one reason. Lowering generator load is another. I can use a smaller generator, but more importantly, generators are much more efficient at lower loads, so I’ll also burn less fuel.

Battery life: Good deep cycles are usually expected to last 5-7-10 years, though i really don’t know how vibration from driving will affect that. The higher end Gel/AGM batteries are made to handle more vibration, but cost more.