Legendary | Worth driving from anywhere
Modern Apizza | Connecticut’s Best Pizzerias | New Haven
Review by: Jane & Michael Stern
Where’s The Best Pizza?
While many connoisseurs of pizza will fight us on this point, we cannot say that Modern Apizza of New Haven serves the best pizza on earth. In our book, it ranks second or third best. But the differences among Connecticut’s great pizzerias are minor. And if even if you do put one of the area’s other holy pizza shrines at the top of your list, eating at Modern ranks as one of the great pizza-eating experiences of a lifetime. For those who prefer Pepe’s, Sally’s, Zuppardi’s, or Roseland, coming to Modern might be like winning only $100 million rather than $125 million in the lottery.
What Makes Modern Apizza Great
“Our brick oven reaches temperature in excess of 700 degrees,” Modern’s menu warns. “Some pizzas may blacken around the edges, and even lose their perfect shape due to contact with the brick floor of the oven.” Ok with us! While a few spots around the edge may be charred (very much so if you order it well-done), the whole pizza has a swoonfully appetizing smoky taste. You see why when you devour slices off the paper on which the pizza rests atop its round pan. The paper appears strewn with charred little bits of semolina from the oven floor, most of which cling to the underside of the crust. They create the slightly burnt hot-bread flavor that typical pizza oven does not produce.
Modern’s specialty toppings include broccoli, sliced tomato, artichoke, and clams casino. That last one pairs clams with bacon and peppers. While crust is what makes New Haven pizza unique, we love Modern’s Italian Bomb. In this case, a multitude of ingredients completely overwhelm the crust. You’ll find sausage, pepperoni, bacon, peppers, onions, mushrooms, and garlic. Vegetarians can plow into a bomb topped with spinach, broccoli, olives, peppers, mushrooms, onion, and garlic.
White Clam Pie
All of Connecticut’s great pizzerias feature white clam pizza — hold the mozzarella. Modern’s version is grand. The clams taste of ocean sweetness. Plenty of garlic crowns the pie. Without a blanket of mozzarella, the crust puffs up dry and chewy. You’ll crunch crispness even at the wafer-thin center.
Note: Gluten-free pizza is available, made on a mozzarella base.
|Meals Served||Lunch, Dinner|
|Credit Cards Accepted||Yes|