Legendary | Worth driving from anywhere
Lithuanian Bakery | Old-World Pastry in Omaha
Review by: Michael Stern
What You Must Eat
Behold the Napoleon torte. It is a beguiling Old-World pastry featured at Omaha’s Lithuanian Bakery. Eight fragile wafer layers ribboned with vanilla buttercream, lemon buttercream and a thin vein of apricot jam define this grand Baltic cake. Buy it whole or by the slice. But do not expect to eat it out of hand. You need knife, fork, and plate. It shatters and tumbles when even lightly pressed. It reminds me of a regular Napoleon, but more complicated.
Beyond the signature Napoleon torte, this humble neighborhood bake shop sells a bevvy of freshly made Old-World pastry: breads, cakes, cookies, and kolaches. I have enjoyed everything I’ve tried. Notable bites include a poppy seed kolache, a luxurious hazelnut torte, and a big square of blueberry coffee cake. The cake sparkles with sour cream in the batter and nuts on top.
Have You Had a Bacon Bun?
I assumed the bakery’s well-respected bacon bun is its version of a runza. A fair assumption, since eastern Nebraska loves its runzas. (What are runzas? Soft dough encloses a lode of meat and onions. Compare it to a Michigan Upper Peninsula pasty.) But the nice lady behind the counter explained to me that bacon buns are virtually the national dish of Lithuania. There, they are known as lasineciai. Tender pearls of bacon bits and soft-cooked onion fill a pocket of soft roll dough. If you seek out unique specialties, do not miss this magic combination.
Sit-Down Dining at the Sister Location
There is no place to sit and eat at the Lithuanian Bakery on 33rd Avenue. However, tables and meal service can be had at the sister Lithuanian Bakery & Cafe. (Location: 7427 Pacific St., Omaha. 402-391-3503) Other treasures you will find over on Pacific street include sausage plates with homemade sauerkraut and red cabbage, apple dumplings, strudel, and cherry turnovers.
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