Memorable | One of the Best
Killer Po Boys | Chef-Crafted Sandwiches | New Orleans
Review by: Michael Stern
Po Boys In A League Of Their Own
Dedicated Roadfooders tell us that it is more fun to eat at the original location of Killer Po Boys, a tiny joint at the back of a raffish bar on Conti Street. But everyone agrees that the chef-crafted sandwiches are every bit as wonderful on Dauphine. They only barely qualify as po boys. But in some meaningful way their iconoclasm perfectly captures a city cuisine that is known not only for its traditions but also for its willingness to change, adapt, and invent.
The Banh Mi Connection
These sandwiches look more like ovoid bahn mis than the typical long sandwiches on Ledenheimer bread. In fact, the rolls come from Dong Phuong bakery. Ingredients stray far from New Orleans normal. Even those that sound like Crescent City classics deviate at least a bit. A debris po boy, for instance, does contain the expected great heap of gravy-sopped shredded braised beef. But pickled jalapeno chips, red peppers, onions, and long green beans accompany the delicious beef. They sear shrimp rather than fry them for a shrimp po boy. The shrimp are beauties, accompanied in the loaf by coriander lime spice, sriracha aioli, pickled daikon radish, carrot, and cucumber.
Integrity of the Sandwich
When I ask if it is possible to get a shrimp po boy without all the folderol, the girl behind the counter kindly informs me that it is not possible. She says that would “ruin the integrity of the sandwich.” The house mission statement describes its fare as internationally inspired, chef-crafted sandwiches.
A sign outside announces that even vegans will be happy here. But you don’t have to be an animal-product-frowner to enjoy the brilliant sweet potato po boy. It contains tender discs of verge-of-caramel yam along with great amounts of succulent, barely-bitter braised greens. A luxurious tapenade of blackeyed peas and pecans serves as its dressing. Among the vegan options you will find an intriguing roasted cauliflower sandwich. It includes avocado, radishes, and peppery Spanish romesco sauce.
The simple storefront eatery, open from 8am and closing mid-afternoon, offers eat-in-the-rough service. Place your order at the counter and pay there. Then find a seat at one of the copper-topped tables. Ambience is retro-hip, including good blues music, folk-art decor, and overhead TVs playing both Andy Griffith and Saturday Night Live. Breakfast options include a cheddar omelet po boy and a smoked salmon po boy with remoulade, onions, capers, and hard-boiled egg.
Note: The original location, inside the Erin Rose Bar at 811 Conti Street, is open from noon to midnight and is adults-only. (504-252-6745)
Directions & Hours
|Meals Served||Breakfast, Lunch|
|Credit Cards Accepted||Yes|