Matt’s Big Breakfast

Not Your Ordinary Diner

If you are looking for breakfast in Phoenix, you won’t find a better one than at Matt’s, Indeed, you won’t find too many eateries in Matt’s league anywhere. Look at the basics: They cook hash browns wickedly crisp and gorgeous gold. Extra-thick, profusely peppered bacon inhabits the perfect space between breakable and bendable. Order pancakes or waffles and you get real maple syrup. They actually squeeze lemons to make lemonade. The cooks crack cage-free eggs to order and cook them in pure butter. Et cetera, et cetera.

Favorite Dishes

In town for three days, duty-bound to explore as many restaurants as time and appetite allowed, I nevertheless managed to visit Matt’s three different times. Among the dishes I want to eat again, right now, are a salami scramble of velvety eggs laced with long twigs of sopressata salami; locally-baked sourdough toast sliced extra-thick and served with fresh strawberry jam; and a dense bourbon-cherry sausage link. Also at the top of the kitchen’s hit parade are a “chop and chick” breakfast that features a skillet-cooked Iowa pork chop and eggs Benedict that my counter-neighbor enjoyed with audible moans of ecstasy.

After Breakfast

By the way, Matt’s serves lunch starting at 11. I tried a butter burger – a gorgeous half-pound Niman Ranch ground chuck patty grilled in butter and topped with cheese (either American, or for $1 extra, Maytag blue). It was very, very good; but in this place, breakfast – served all day – is king.

Urban Cool

Matt’s has a stylish urban-renewal appearance with exposed ductwork and concrete flooring that looks like an old garage. Clientele and staff are urban cool. But the vibe is classic diner. Many regular customers and their orders are known to waitresses, and service is brisk and informal. Seating is at two counters, one of which looks outward onto 1st Street, and at several bare wood tables.

Currently, these are the other locations of Matt’s for Breakfast in Phoenix and environs: 7507 W. Rose Garden Ln., Glendale (623-259-9836). 13610 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale. (480-590-0096). 3118 East Camelback Rd. (602-840-3450). Gate 5B, Terminal 4 in Sky Harbor Airport.