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There are few dishes simpler than scrambled eggs, which can be little more than eggs scrambled, poured into a pan, and worried as they cook. A glaze of butter on the cooking surface is welcome, as is a dash of milk mixed into the eggs. Starting with this template, America’s chefs have created a roster of distinctive scrambled egg dishes. These include San Francisco’s New Joe Special that features spinach and ground beef, Southwestern migas with tortilla chips and peppers, and hangtown fry with bacon and oysters.