Memorable | One of the Best
Frankinbun | Hot Dog Heaven in Palm Springs
Review by: Michael Stern
**** THIS RESTAURANT IS PERMANENTLY CLOSED ****
Hot Dogs of America
Born in Chicago, I naturally spend a lot of time thinking about hot dogs. Dozens of regional variations command attention, including baroque Sonoran dogs in Tucson, the Coney Islands of Detroit (vs. the Coney Islands of Cincinnati), Michigans around Lake Champlain, Newark Italian dogs, the bright red weenies of Maine, and the white hots of upstate New York. That is why walking into Frankinbun induces rhapsodic catatonia. What to order, what to order? Yes, this is Hot Dog Heaven. Enticing options abound.
Chicago: Dragged Through the Garden
Consider the hot dog billed as Frankie Goes to Chicago. Sure enough, the concept tastes like the Windy City. Bright yellow mustard, sweet green piccalilli, a length of crunchy dill pickle, tomatoes, a scattering of sport peppers, and a sprinkle of celery salt adorn a snappy beef sausage in a poppy-seed bun. It differs from a true Chicago red hot in that it’s about 50% bigger; and the bun, rather than being squishy-fresh, is toasted. But I shall not complain!
You might well ask: How does the soul food / Amish dish of chicken and waffles fit on a hot dog menu? The answer: brilliantly. The cook plants a succulent chicken sausage on a stick, wraps it in a crisp, malty waffle, and serves it with a cup of syrup for dipping. What genius thought of this?
Frankinbun’s currywurst is a strange cross-cultural twist: bratwurst cut into bite-size pieces bathed in spicy/sweet red curry sauce. I’m not sure it’s an idea whose time has come, but I had no problem laying waste to a basketful.
If none of the suggested house combos suit your taste, create your own by selecting from a list of nine different sausages (including one that’s vegan) and toppings that range from mustard and onions to mango or date chutney.
French fries, cooked right (twice), become a fetching balance of crisp edge and creamy middle. House-made potato salad hums with a pickly twist. The potato tornado, an infinitely long coiled potato chip from which you pull off pieces as you wish, dazzles eye and palate.
Frankinbun is a minuscule Hot Dog Heaven with a small patio out front and a large measure of style. Note the artistic wallpaper, the pattern of which graces house-signature Aloha shirts, available for purchase at just under $100 each.
Directions & Hours
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