Good | Worth a Return
Review by: Jess Dawson
Sometimes you find the best comfort food in the simplest spaces. In a single-story white building, The Waterstop space sits next to a bright green truck that sells rescued cacti. We get a menu inside, then find a table on the shaded patio. Our waitress is along shortly.
No shortage of drinks
Unsurprisingly, there is water here, as well as fresh-squeezed juices and “shots” of two varieties: The ginger with lemon, cayenne and turmeric, and the prickly pear with lime. A nice beer and wine selection can be seen inside, as well as a beautifully decorated bar area that is no doubt hopping come dinner time.
The ultimate comfort combo
The jalapeño mac and cheese might as well be its own pasta dish, not a side. The sauce is beautifully silky, with cheddar and Gruyere. Slices of raw jalapeño add an extra bite. It’s rich and comforting.
The chicken sandwich arrives with a roasted jalapeño speared on top, which I recommend immediately adding into your sandwich. The squishy potato bun is not too thick, but dense and sweet like a Hawaiian roll. It’s meaty enough to stand up to the very large and juicy piece of chicken. Vinegar slaw, thinly-sliced house pickles, pickled onions and spicy mayo bring it all together and it’s almost too big to eat. Almost.
We also get the Chicken Avocado Grain Bowl with quinoa and jasmine rice, spicy peanut sauce, fresh cucumber, sliced radishes, pickled cabbage, carrots and avocado. It’s good, but nowhere near as satisfying as the sandwich.
A beloved rotisserie
Chef Rebecca Bockelie worked in kitchens in L.A. and New York before stopping in Marfa on her way back from Cuba. She fell in love with the town, and a rotisserie that one of her friends had bought. We’ll be back for more of the chicken, which is brined overnight in honey, sea salt and sugar, then cooked over mesquite and pecan wood.
The atmosphere at the end of the lunch hour is relaxed and cordial. The staff is packing up but not rushing people out. Everyone seems to be thoroughly enjoying their comfort food, much like us.
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