Fish Eye Grill

Bar-b-q | Cafeteria | Meat-and-Three | Small Town Café
Memorable
One of the best
Michael Stern | October 08, 2018
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In a bright, modern dining room with woodsy-rustic ambience, Fish Eye Grill serves model Dixie fare, cafeteria style. The meat and vegetable choices are not as extensive as in a giant cafeteria, but I’ve yet to find anything that is less than excellent.

Brisket is a big surprise. BBQ-wise, this is pork country, and Fish Eye pork is swell; but the slow-cooked brisket is not to be missed. It is lean and yet luxurious, piled on the plate in great beefy shreds that include crunchy burnt ends among their juicy succulence. Luscious as the brisket is, it gets even better when drizzled with BBQ sauce that is slightly sweet with a mustard twang.

Burke County, Georgia, straddles what Roadfood’s Chickenplucker calls the “Hash/Stew Line of Demarcation,” meaning that to the east and north, BBQ’s essential side dish is known as hash, whereas to the west and south. it’s more likely to be called Brunswick stew. Hash tends to be mostly meat; stew generally has more vegetables. When I asked the server if she was dipping into Brunswick stew or hash to accompany my brisket, she looked at me with a big grin and responded, “It’s both!” It is a hearty dish, substantial enough and diverse enough that a plateful on a pile of rice could be a meal by itself.

Other tantalizing sides: potent collard greens with faint pepper bite, earthy cornbread dressing, luxurious mac ‘n’ cheese made with penne pasta, and blocks of creamy corn bread.

Portions are generous and the savory food is all so good that one runs the risk of annihilating appetite before dessert. That would be a mistake, for desserts are a highlight at Fish Eye Grill. Banana pudding is especially fine — a stratified hill of cookies, custard, banana discs, and cream in which each element maintains its essential quality (crisp cookies, silky custard, fruity banana, ethereal cream), forming the grand coalition that is banana pudding at its finest.

Eclair cake, which layers a ribbon of dark chocolate atop custard atop a Graham cracker crust, is another sweet-tooth delight. It is indeed reminiscent of an eclair, but its thick chocolate glaze and cream filling might remind a Yankee of Boston cream pie.

A bustling, enthusiastic staff adds happy energy to the experience of eating at this new (since August, 2018) restaurant. It isn’t near a major travel destination, but it is well worth a detour if you seek a genuine southern meal, a friendly place, and killer dessert.

Note that Fish Eye Grill is open only Thursday through Sunday.

What to Eat
Fish Eye Grill, Brisket
Brisket
Must-Try
Tangy-sweet mustard sauce is right for brisket.
Fish Eye Grill, Fried Chicken
Fried Chicken
Must-Try
Virtually greaseless fried chicken is moist inside, spicy all around.
Fish Eye Grill, Sweet Potato Casserole
Sweet Potato Casserole
Must-Try
Were it not so earthy, sweet potato casserole would be fine dessert.
Fish Eye Grill, Collard Greens
Collard Greens
Must-Try
Fresh, potent collards have a peppery edge.
Fish Eye Grill, Mac & Cheese
Mac & Cheese
Must-Try
Very creamy mac & cheese
Fish Eye Grill, Cornbread Dressing
Cornbread Dressing
Must-Try
Southern-style cornbread dressing goes well with everything.
Fish Eye Grill, Cabbage
Cabbage
Must-Try
Side-dish cabbage is loaded with discs of oinky sausage.
Fish Eye Grill, Banana Pudding
Banana Pudding
Must-Try
Banana pudding is an impeccable balance of all the right elements.
Fish Eye Grill, Brunswick Stew
Brunswick Stew
Must-Try
On the cusp of Brunswick stew and hash-on-rice
Fish Eye Grill, Eclair Cake
Eclair Cake
Must-Try
Layers of chocolate, custard & graham cracker = eclair cake
Fish Eye Grill, Meat Loaf
Meat Loaf
Must-Try
Onion-laced, moist and beefy meat loaf is crowned with ketchup.
Directions and Hours
closed now
Sunday11am - 3pm
MondayCLOSED
TuesdayCLOSED
WednesdayCLOSED
Thursday11am - 9pm
Friday11am - 9pm
Saturday11am - 9pm
Information
Price
$
Seasons
Open Year Round
Meals Served
Lunch, Dinner
Credit Cards Accepted
Yes
Alcohol Served
No
Outdoor Seating
No
Website

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