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Cabbage plays many significant roles in American gastronomy. When it’s crisp and uncooked and mixed with mayonnaise or some sort of vinaigrette, it is cole slaw. When slow-cooked with butter or pork, onions and spice, it is a featured attraction on meat-and-3 menus. The latter technique is used at Brenda’s Diner of New Iberia, Louisiana, where a fusillade of Tabasco, spice, and bacon transform a healthful herbaceous crucifer into a wicked Cajun dish. Midwestern cafes offer creamed cabbage tempered with white milk gravy. Also in the Midwest, it is not uncommon to find cabbage paired with ground meat, in such European-heritage pocket meals as runzas and bierocks as well as in pierogies and the Czech-ancestored zelnik.