Brown’s Quality Seafood

Seafood
Memorable
One of the best
Michael Stern | May 18, 2017
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A low-slung fresh seafood market and restaurant set far back behind a gas station, Brown’s is all too easy to pass unless you already know it’s there. The good news is that many citizens of Waynesboro and beyond do know it’s there and have put it high on the good-eats roster of Burke County. For shrimp, oysters, scallops, and flatfish, it is hard to beat.

Nearly all the seafood available can be grilled or steamed, but I cannot resist having mine fried. This kitchen really knows how to do it, veiling morsels or fillets in a thin, sandy, well-seasoned crust that barely clings to the fish it encloses. Continue reading

A low-slung fresh seafood market and restaurant set far back behind a gas station, Brown’s is all too easy to pass unless you already know it’s there. The good news is that many citizens of Waynesboro and beyond do know it’s there and have put it high on the good-eats roster of Burke County. For shrimp, oysters, scallops, and flatfish, it is hard to beat.

Nearly all the seafood available can be grilled or steamed, but I cannot resist having mine fried. This kitchen really knows how to do it, veiling morsels or fillets in a thin, sandy, well-seasoned crust that barely clings to the fish it encloses. Scallops are the real deal, silk-smooth and redolent of marine sweetness. Likewise, oysters are big-bellied fellas, as fresh as can be, their ooey-gooey meat so perfectly matched to a veil of crust. Shrimp are big and firm, independently good but even better when dragged through Brown’s horseradish-powered cocktail sauce.

On the side, crinkle-cut fries are quite alright; hushpuppies are fresh and subtly oniony with a wickedly crisp exterior; slaw is a finely-chopped refresher made to complement seafood. And there’s dessert, too — darn good dessert, especially the creamy-fresh banana pudding. My appetite was too devastated to try the very homey-looking cuts of red velvet cake and strawberry cake that were set out on the order counter. (Parenthetically, customers allergic to seafood have a worthy option in the form of Brown’s hand-pattied, brightly seasoned hamburger.)

Dining is eat-in-the-rough. Walk through the spacious dining room to a small alcove in back where you place your order, pay, and help yourself to a beverage. Find a seat at one of the tables and when the food is ready, a voice over the loud speaker calls you to come and get it.

Note that Brown’s is closed Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday.

Dishes to try
Brown’s Quality Seafood, Fried Shrimp
Fried Shrimp
Must-Try
Huge, firm shrimp are enclosed in crisp batter that barely clings.
Brown’s Quality Seafood, Fried Oysters
Fried Oysters
Must-Try
Oysters are sweet and toasty, ample even in the non-R months.
Brown’s Quality Seafood, Hushpuppies
Hushpuppies
Must-Try
Crisp and dense, onion-sweet, just-right oily, Brown's hushpuppies are seafood's ideal companion.
Brown’s Quality Seafood, Cole Slaw
Cole Slaw
Must-Try
Finely-chopped, crisp cole slaw is a refreshing balance of sweet and pickly.
Brown’s Quality Seafood, Scallops
Scallops
Scallops are silky-smooth and ocean-flavored underneath their well-seasoned coat.
Brown’s Quality Seafood, Condiments
Condiments
Brown's makes its own condiments. The cocktail sauce has a bright horseradish glow.
Brown’s Quality Seafood, Banana Pudding
Banana Pudding
It's not beautiful in its Styrofoam cup, but this is one heck of a good banana pudding: buttery custard, wafers in multiple stages of dampness, just the right amount of Cool Whip.
Brown’s Quality Seafood, Cake
Cake
Strawberry and red velvet cake are available pre-cut at the order counter. "I know they're messy," said the woman taking orders, "but they are good" (_good_ being a two-syllable word as she spoke it.)
Brown’s Quality Seafood, Cheeseburger
Cheeseburger
I wouldn't come to Brown's for the burgers, but if there are fish frowners in your party, they'll be very happy with this hand-pattied beauty.
Directions and Hours
open now
SundayCLOSED
MondayCLOSED
TuesdayCLOSED
Wednesday8am - 8pm
Thursday8am - 8pm
Friday8am - 9pm
Saturday8am - 9pm
Information and Policies
Seasons
Meals Served
Lunch, Dinner
Credit Cards Accepted
Yes
Alcohol Served
No
Outdoor Seating
No
Reservations Accepted
No
Delivery Available
No
Takeout Counter
Yes