Memorable | One of the Best
Brown’s Quality Seafood
Review by: Michael Stern
A low-slung fresh seafood market and restaurant set far back behind a gas station, Brown’s is all too easy to pass unless you already know it’s there. The good news is that many citizens of Waynesboro and beyond do know it’s there and have put it high on the good-eats roster of Burke County. For shrimp, oysters, scallops, and flatfish, it is hard to beat.
Nearly all the seafood available can be grilled or steamed, but I cannot resist having mine fried. This kitchen really knows how to do it, veiling morsels or fillets in a thin, sandy, well-seasoned crust that barely clings to the fish it encloses. Scallops are the real deal, silk-smooth and redolent of marine sweetness. Likewise, oysters are big-bellied fellas, as fresh as can be, their ooey-gooey meat so perfectly matched to a veil of crust. Shrimp are big and firm, independently good but even better when dragged through Brown’s horseradish-powered cocktail sauce.
On the side, crinkle-cut fries are quite alright; hushpuppies are fresh and subtly oniony with a wickedly crisp exterior; slaw is a finely-chopped refresher made to complement seafood. And there’s dessert, too — darn good dessert, especially the creamy-fresh banana pudding. My appetite was too devastated to try the very homey-looking cuts of red velvet cake and strawberry cake that were set out on the order counter. (Parenthetically, customers allergic to seafood have a worthy option in the form of Brown’s hand-pattied, brightly seasoned hamburger.)
Dining is eat-in-the-rough. Walk through the spacious dining room to a small alcove in back where you place your order, pay, and help yourself to a beverage. Find a seat at one of the tables and when the food is ready, a voice over the loud speaker calls you to come and get it.
Note that Brown’s is closed Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday.
Directions & Hours
- Monday: Closed
- Tuesday: Closed
- Wednesday: 10:30 AM – 8:00 PM
- Thursday: 10:30 AM – 8:00 PM
- Friday: 10:30 AM – 9:00 PM
- Saturday: 10:30 AM – 9:00 PM
- Sunday: Closed
|Meals Served||Lunch, Dinner|
|Credit Cards Accepted||Yes|