Excellent | Worth a Detour
Review by: Jess Dawson
Walking into Al Campo, we’re hankering for a good sandwich, and, once we grab a menu, zero in on what sounds like the tastiest spicy brisket sandwich: The Guerrero (more on that later).
The chef here is of Chilean descent, and marries those bold flavors with West Texas on the menu, from tacos and salads to bruschetta and short ribs. There are two fridges of wines available by the bottle, and three varietals up front for glasses. We place our order, then head past a screened porch to the outdoor area, which has plenty of picnic tables and areas for two to hang.
‘Are you ready for this?’
The Guerrero arrives open-faced and piled high with baby spinach. The gentleman who places it on our wooden table says, “Are you ready for this?” and we know we ordered right. This is, indeed, one of the tastiest spicy brisket sandwiches.
Underneath the spinach, there are layers of flavor. Most prominent is the brisket, braised in wine and Worcestershire and so very tender, bordering on medium rare. The dijon aioli is creamy and a little tangy, complemented with pickled onions, pickles, jalapeños and the coup de grace: shoestring fries. I initially thought these would be served on the side, but they are right up in the sandwich, and provide the final crunchy touch on a symphony of savory textures.
A tasty supporting cast
Al Campo’s Queso is made with two different cheeses, plenty of spices and rich morsels of chorizo. The heat doesn’t make your nose run, but it does keep you going back for bite after bite.
We finish on a high note with Chocolate Cream Pie. We also add two more glasses of wine in the mix. Since we already have glasses, the barkeep hands us a half bottle and says, “That’s about two, right?”
The pie is smooth like a mousse, with a crumbly cinnamon-sugar crust and chocolate sprinkles. It pairs nicely with the wine as we feel the evening cool off.
Get inked before you go
Al Campo is a family affair “born out of a friendship, a road trip and a promise in 2016.” Everyone here seems know someone else, and everywhere we look people are enjoying themselves, often going back for seconds and settling into the slower pace of Marfa.
Should you feel inspired to “have a permanent reminder of a temporary feeling,” you can make an appointment in the rear of the property at Slowpoke, where they hand-poke tattoos in a renovated Airstream.
|Meals Served||Lunch, Dinner, Dessert, Late Night|
|Credit Cards Accepted||Yes|