Good | Worth a Return
Review by: Michael Stern
American Burgers and Indian Tacos
Fry bread distinguishes the Wickiup Grill as a source of native-American food. The management aims to serve what it calls “nutrition with a native twist.”
The puffy fry bread disc can support one (or two) burger patties, a configuration known as an Apache burger.
Fry bread also forms the foundation of what menus in this part of the southwest bill as an Indian taco or Navajo taco. It only barely resembles the more familiar Mexican folded-over taco. An Indian taco arrays all the typical taco ingredients atop the wide round of puffy bread. You could call it an Indian pizza.
If you are a hamburger traditionalist, you may forgo the fry bread. Instead, choose a more ordinary-looking burger in a bun. Dress it with bacon, cheese, and whatever garnishes and condiments you desire. Those who like it hot add jalapeno chips to the formula. Side the burger with French fries or fried potato wedges.
While you won’t find it on the regular menu, the kitchen frequently offers soup. Often, the flavorful broth features acorn dumplings.
If you seek a unique native twist, check out Indian tamales. They differ from the more familiar Mexican ones ones in which cheese, meat, and/or chilies are woven throughout the corn masa. Wickiup Grill makes its tamale as a distinct tunnel of soft corn masa that encloses the ingredients.
When the cafe opens for breakfast, you can have a basic bacon & egg meal or French toast topped with powdered sugar and blueberries. Better yet, go for the breakfast burrito, which adds hash browns and cheese to bacon and eggs. Salsa comes alongside. Best of all, plow into a “Wickiup burrito.” Green chili smothers that one.
Not everything on the menu is focused on nutrition with a native twist. Those who seek a more familiar cafe meal can choose hot wings, a BLT, a ham sandwich, or chicken tenders.
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