Legendary | Worth driving from anywhere
Review by: Michael Stern
Mamasushi: How about some Caribbean-Asian food?
You will find it walking along a hilly stretch of Broadway in New York’s Washington Heights neighborhood. Note flags of the Dominican Republic hanging from windows everywhere. Listen to the ringing steel-string guitars of Bachata, the salsa-like music of Hispaniola. And smell the perfume of sweet plantains, coconut shrimp, and chimmichuri meats wafting from cafes along the way.
Veer off Broadway where it intersects Riverside Drive onto Dyckman Street. Walk a block. Here you notice a special twist to Little Dominican Republic‘s alluring food aromas. It’s the crisp-oil scent of tempura batter frying. It comes from the restaurant called Mamasushi.
What to eat at Mamasushi
In this bustling cafe, the menu includes a few traditional Dominican dishes. But its fame has been earned by sushi rolls with a Dominican accent.
Caribbean treats include fried snapper, roast pork with sweet plantains, and macadamia-crusted mahi mahi. The chefs will make sushi rolls that look familiar. But it’s the Caribbean-Asian variants that demand attention. Consider, for example a house roll of Dominican longaniza (sausage similar to chorizo) with yucca fries and chimichurri sauce. One called the Mexicano stacks up shrimp tempura, fried cheese, avocado, pico de gallo, and guacamole. Jalapeno peppers combine with tuna tartare, smoked salmon, cucumber, avocado, sweet plantain, and ginger to become a roll named Hot Mama.
Yes, believe Mamasushi’s house motto: “More Than Sushi.”
Note: A second Mamasushi has opened in the Bronx, at 3478 E. Tremont Ave. 718-684-8666.
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