Excellent | Worth a Detour
Review by: Michael Stern
Swett’s opened in 1954 as a small soul-food meat-and-three cafe. It became a large, modern cafeteria, burnt down, and was built again. Portraits of the founding Swetts adorn the walls; and their legacy is reflected by a kitchen that continues to serve hearty soul food meals at reasonable prices.
Like so many cafeteria lines, this one starts with dessert: slices of pie ranging from low-profile chess to lofty meringues, plus a couple of hot fruit cobblers. Beyond the sweets are the meats; handsome fried chicken, spice-encrusted baked chicken, sausages, country steak, and beef tips. Now comes the real fun: vegetables. Swett’s repertoire is a southern symphony of steamed or fried okra, fried corn, squash casserole, candied yams, mashed potatoes, mac & cheese, stewed cabbage, candied apples, baked beans, turnip greens, rice and gravy, et cetera. Most customers get one meat and two or three vegetables. Some fill their tray with nothing but four or five vegetable dishes … accompanied, of course by corn bread, either baked as a loaf and sliced or in the more typical local formation, as a cake fried on a griddle.
Draw your own ice tea (sweet or unsweet) at the end of the cafeteria line.
|Meals Served||Lunch, Dinner|
|Credit Cards Accepted||Yes|