Memorable | One of the Best
Review by: Michael Stern
The Bronx originally was part of Westchester County, so it makes sense that when you go to Tino’s for a chicken parm hero, you’ll hear some fellow eaters refer to it by its Westchester moniker, a wedge. Whatever you call it, the mighty log of lunch Tino’s makes is definitive. First, there’s the bread. Many sandwiches of chicken parmigiana (or eggplant parmigiana) are built upon a toasted loaf. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, but all too often toasting is simply a way of disguising a stale or inferior length of bread. Tino’s doesn’t toast, but if you want that crunch, get yours on a crisp-crusted Italian roll that is impeccably fresh and Arthur-Avenue soulful. Soft club rolls also are available, and panini-style press-grilled sandwiches are available as well. Then there’s the chicken itself, just lightly breaded and glazed with fantastic sauce that tastes like it’s really made from tomatoes, all of this crowned with creamy-fresh mozzarella. We nominate Tino’s handsome hunk as King of Hot Italian Sandwiches.
There is much, much more to the menu of this good-eats beacon, the motto of which is “Little Italy in the Bronx.” Beyond a long list of superlative sandwiches are classic pasta dishes and good-looking pizza.
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