The Pullman

Review by: Jess Dawson

The menu at The Pullman is entirely based on what makes it over McClure Pass from Delta County, and right now, it’s Colorado greens and fruits, carrots and corn. This provides not just the ingredients but the inspiration for chef Mark Fischer’s dishes, which range from small to large, sweet to savory. It’s pretty much the tastiest comfort food.

Sweet, salty, fried and pickled

We start with Bacon Pickled Deviled Eggs that are an interesting combination of flavors. The tart, almost-springy whites balance a creamy yolk that’s slightly sweet and whipped to its lightest version. On top: a few bits of crunchy bacon. 

Next is the Carrot Cake Cinnamon Roll, which is on a slate plate that makes it a little tricky to cut. It’s about standard in size, but with big bits of shredded carrot throughout the yeasty dough. The cream cheese frosting and cinnamon go nicely with the sweetness of the dough, and there’s enough frosting to go around.

I deviate from a regular breakfast order because I’m intrigued by the Olathe Street Corn Fritters, which arrive in a big pile atop a sweet crema with herbs, queso fresco and a few sprigs of cilantro. They’re chock full of fresh corn, a bit heavy, but delicious.

Finally, we get the Short Rib Hash, which ends up being a huge serving ample enough for two. The hash itself has caramelized onions and is cut slightly by the hollandaise, which is made with whole grain mustard. The poached eggs are delightfully runny, adding even more richness to the dish.

A history of good things

Chef Fischer has a few other restaurants under his belt, and earned his chops at an Italian restaurant where he learned to source whole ingredients locally. This was a far cry from his childhood in the early ‘60s, when vegetables were more likely to come from the freezer than the ground. 

The restaurant space is ample, charmingly set on the southwest corner of Seventh and Cooper with a view of the river and bridge. The building previously served as a bar, and got its namesake from its turn as Pullman Diner in the 1920s and 30s. It’s also been a night club, bus terminal, sporting goods store, auto glass shop, motor company and filling station—but this iteration is definitely its best yet. We hit all the high notes and are full up on the tastiest comfort food in Glenwood Springs.

What To Eat

Bacon Pickled Deviled Eggs

DISH
Carrot Cake Cinnamon Roll

DISH
Olathe Street Corn Fritters

DISH
Pullman Short Rib Hash

DISH

The Pullman Recipes

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