Excellent | Worth a Detour
New Era Cafe | Old World Home Cooking | Akron Ohio
Review by: Michael Stern
Old World Home Cooking
New Era’s new building lacks the colorful charms of so many other Northern Ohio destinations for great European/American meals. But the food is utterly authentic, as is a staff who really do take pride in what they serve. In this big, popular place, the menu does include plenty of all-American standards. It is possible to sit down for a cheeseburger, a hot dog, Buffalo wings, fried chicken, or beer batter cod. But I recommend coming for New Era’s wide array of central and eastern European classics. Much of the old world home cooking has a distinct Serbian accent.
Paprikash is a house specialty. Unlike the more common Hungarian versions that are creamy rich, this one is more a thin broth. The broth insinuates its pepper flavor into velvety little dumplings that surround pieces of chicken on the plate. Roast duck with stuffing is worthy of a holiday feast. Cevapi — skinless Serbian sausages with a good chaw and a pepper bite — come either 5 or 10 to an order. They are wonderful sided by the kitchen’s genuine mashed potatoes and rich brown gravy as well as a scattering of crisp chopped onion. All this old world home cooking comes with bakery-fresh bread. Beverage choices include cocktails from a full service bar and frighteningly dark Turkish coffee.
Grandma Makes Dessert
“Where do you get your strudel?” we asked a young waitress when it came time to order dessert. She looked at us like we were crazy and pointed to the New Era kitchen. “We get it from there,” she answered. “My grandmother makes it.” It might be the best strudel in a city with many fine pastry chefs. Its multiple layers of skin flake at the slightest touch. The warm apple compote at its heart is sweet like ripe fruit, not like sugar.
|Meals Served||Lunch, Dinner|
|Credit Cards Accepted||Yes|