Memorable | One of the Best
Review by: Michael Stern
Kewpee Lunch dates back to the pre-Depression days; and although today it is a spanking-clean stainless steel and Formica-table urban burger joint with lovely little images of Kewpee dolls in the tiles along the wall, it has all the ambience and the no-frills menu of a 1920s urban hash house. A big glass case along the back wall is filled with old-time Kewpies and memorabilia of the Kewpie Doll, the baby-faced munchkin designed by Rose O’Neil in 1909 that became one of the most familiar pop-culture icons of the century’s early decades.
Sit at counter or dinette tables, and order either a hamburger or a double (or a bowl of good Midwest-style chili). The hamburgers start as a 1/6-pound or 1/3-pound sphere of fresh ground beef that is hand-fashioned into a patty, then flattened on the grill and cooked until crusty brown, finally sandwiched in a toasted bun with condiments of choice. To drink with this lunch counter hamburger, there are homemade root beer, a thick made-to-order milk shake, or a malted milk. The Kewpee Lunch menu notes that Racine, Wisconsin is the birthplace of malted milk. This refers to the fact that Racine is home to Horlick’s, the company that makes malted milk powder, originally developed in 1877 as a weight-gain aid for children.
|Meals Served||Breakfast, Lunch|
|Credit Cards Accepted||No|