Memorable | One of the Best
Review by: Michael Stern
Surprise Roadfood Find
I had no intention of eating a meal at T-Coons. Walking back to the hotel from a breakfast of swanky pastries at Poupart Patisserie, I couldn’t help but pause at the T-Coon’s window. Signs advertised smothered rabbit and hot beignets. From its parking lot, this place looks like any ordinary short-order café. But here in south Louisiana, the word ordinary rarely applies to restaurants. In fact, anyone in search of from-scratch regional fare should put T-Coon’s “Zydeco cooking” high on the itinerary.
I would call it Cajun, except that chef and owner, David Billeaud, prefers the term Zydeco. He says, “Zydeco cooking implies a mix of the Creole and Cajun influences exclusive to this area of Southern Louisiana.” And boy, oh, boy, you sure can taste what he means. The menu offers such regional delights as catfish courtbouillon and crawfish etouffee. For dessert: warm bread pudding. But in fact, everything – EVERYTHING – served here exceeds expectations. This casual neighborhood eatery where locals come to chat and chew, provides a brilliant taste of Cajun country.
Everything Is Extraordinary
Breakfast potatoes, for example, rise well above the level of perfunctory side dish. When I debated among grits, potatoes, and oatmeal, waitress Nicole recommended the spuds. As she put it, “They are cooked down with onions, and seasoned.” Oh, yes, they are seasoned: brilliantly spiced and caramelized-onion-sweet with variegated texture from soft to crunchy.
Toast to go with eggs? That’s made here, too: white or whole wheat comes in thick half-slices ideal for dipping into the yolk of a fried egg or for mopping up gravy. Smoked sausage is local, but not from this kitchen, so I went for the ordinary (not) sausage. They make that here. A broad, juicy, rugged patty fairly glows with exuberant spices.
I am so sorry that I had to leave town shortly after finding this place. There is a daily lunch buffet featuring the likes of red beans and rice (with sausage, of course), baked or fried chicken, smothered beef or pork, shrimp and okra stew, short rib fricassee, and that every-Monday smothered rabbit. I am eager to return!
Directions & Hours
|Meals Served||Breakfast, Lunch|
|Credit Cards Accepted||Yes|