Your so right Doc.
Our HD isn’t to much different, Government wants a million in fees about the same as down there.
Where we really differ is fire safety, we’re way over the top.
You know it’s interesting, that in some areas in Illinois, the fire department,electrical inspectors, and plumbing inspector, will do an inspection if required by the city zoning department. But that issue was fought by a vendor, and won so now zoning has no say in any issue concerning food distribution from a trailer,cart or truck.
Although the entire issue went unnoticed by 99.9% of the state, (thank god) and especially city counsels, so currently there is no attempt to write any rules for food vendors. In many areas only the health department controls vending. And even most of the health departments aren’t aware of the decision. And I expect things to remain status quo until we get some sort of big influx of street vendors. And that’s not likely in most of the state because the population is not dense enough (not enough foot traffic) to warrant many food vending operations. So we have a few but not many operations in downstate. The biggest exception of course is the Chicago area.
The top is the under pan of my trailer. The pin that you see is part of the removable tongue. The hole is cut, and I have it attached to a union that was plastic welded into the tank. The left side is the side of my trailer, which terminates at the Bladex valve.
The waste tank only has this one elbow in it. If anything clogs that, and lords knows how anything ever would, because all the sinks have built in mesh drain strainers, I would just unscrew the Bladex valve and run a hose up it. It is also how I can spray down the inside of the tank to remove grime etc. The length of the horizontal pipe is about 10″.
The plastic welding cost about $50 but included the union.
This is the Valterra valve on the side of the trailer. Simple operation, and I can attach a garden hose to it to get some length on draining it if needed.
good read on the first page, I think I would be more concerned about the carbon monoxide if I didn’t have any ventalation in the mobile trailer at all, I have a 6 foot window that is screened in to expose 3feet of free flowing air, plus my unit is close to the back door, and all I have to do if I get concerned is open the back door to create a wind tunnel. Though the unit is only going to be running for a few minutes at a time, I’m sure everything will be ok. I had it running for about 5 minutes straight while working around the vent area and didn’t feel any weird effects.
I told the rep what I was using it for, and he said it shouldn’t be a problem or hazard with the unit as it was and where it was located.
Look at this although the price is way high. And shown in the picture is a gas valve although the seller said it’s not included. Geez But it is what most fire departments require an auto shutoff gas valve, a pull station and the suppression system.
The spillage pan is most likely what you need..
Dog, do you live in the middle of nowhere?? Why can’t you get all thgese small parts and pieces locally?
Wild Dog….Couple of things you should take note of. Reading up on your water heater it will operate better at 40 psi and above. Make sure the pump you select will give you the needed flow rate at those pressures to to comply with HD regs. You should also install valves on the inlet and outlet side of the pump for when you need to do routine service. Also install flexible tubing on both ports. Vibrations from the pump will cause the cpvc to crack over time if not used. Looking good so far and I wish you the best of luck getting going.
As a restaurant pro you should know to get all (note all) the rules in writing, from the Health Department, Zoning Department, and any other agencies you may, or may not have to deal with, before you buy or make changes to anything that relates to the restaurant business.
And if you had read the FAQ here on Roadfood, you would have been reminded of that, (rule number one).
That said go get the rule book and don’t give the bastards (in any city department) a chance to spank you again.
Good Luck and if you have the rule books (city and Health Codes) and read them you’ll make your own luck.
I probably wont screw everything down until after I pass the inspection… lol
If it doesn’t leak, that’s a great idea.
@ The Wild Dog, just to be safe with your water heater you might consider getting a battery operated carbon monoxide detector to mount in your rig. carbon monoxide is colorless and orderless and you will never know if carbon monoxide levels have risen to a level to harm you. The detector will give you ample warning of a problem before it is to late. Anyone that runs a generator close to an enclosed area I would also recommend that a detector be mounted. That stuff will kill you.
Here is a good thread about it on airforums…see if i can sneak a link in here… (replace DOT with . )
airforums DOT com/forums/f445/eccotemp-l5-portable-water-heater-53003-2 DOT html
I think the carbon monoxide vents out the top of the unit where the vent shield is. The reason I noticed by looking at your pictures is that I had looked at buying one of these a while back for my hurricane survival kit to have hot water for showers after a hurricane if no utilities were available and I knew that this type was usually for outdoor use only.
I’m headed to Lowes now to buy the pipe, I’m gonna ask them bout the fittings, Will keep ya posted…. OH BOY HERE WE GO !!!!![8D]
there is no place for you to put a vent tube on this unit. Mine is enclosed under my sink, the space you see in mine is usually covered with a removable panel. I run all of my gas lines under the trailer, I’ll post a new pic of what everything looks like now, since I replaced everything to give you a better idea of my set up.
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