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Posted by Michael Stern on Sunday, February 14, 2016 3:42 AM


Greek and Italian specialties of all kinds are featured on Jordan's menu, from moussaka to veal parmigiana; and you can get a pizza with distinctly Greek-flavored toppings such as feta cheese and Greek olives, eggplant or gyro meat. But the Greek pizza we recommend is not so much Greek as it is Greek-crusted with more familiar Italian-style toppings such as sausage, anchovies or sliced tomatoes.

By Greek crust, we mean a unique style of pan pizza found in Greek-run pizza parlors throughout the Northeast. Look in the kitchen at Jordan's and you will see piles of pans stacked up with dough already patted into them and, in most cases, with red sauce spread across the bottom waiting for cheese and other ingredients. The time this dough spends in its pan before the pizza is assembled and bakes gives it a powerful, yeasty flavor not unlike good beer! Well-oiled, it emerges with wicked crunch all around the edge and a sturdy-enough underside to support a good flow of mozzarella, etc. It definitely is not a pie for the Neapolitan pizza purist, but in my book it has charms all its own.

The crust is so appreciated by customers that Jordan's offers a full array of "salad pizzas," which simply are cooked crusts heaped with your choice of antipasto, Greek salad, or regular lettuce salad dressed with excellent house-made dressing. The king of salads at Jordan's is known as the Kitsas Pella. It is made by forming one of the crusts into a bread bowl and filling it with dressed greens, feta, mozzarella, olives and your choice of chicken souvlaki meat, gyro meat, tuna, steak, or shrimp.
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Posted on Sunday, February 14, 2016

Braised duck, tamarind green papaya, garlic dipping sauce for roasted yucca
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Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2016
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Posted by Michael Stern on Saturday, February 13, 2016 5:26 AM

Two Step

Aglamesis Bros. is high on many ice cream fans' must-eat list. Roadfooder Chris Brubaker described it as "a beautiful little cafe with a turn-of-the-century Italian marble countertop." And so, after a morning of delicious goetta and a stroll through the Findlay Market with Anne Mitchell, dining editor of Cincinnati's alt-weekly newspaper, CityBeat, we managed to get to Aglamesis Bros. just about noon. Anne said that most connoisseurs come down strongly in favor of either Graeter's or Aglamesis; and it was her opinion that the decision depended on whether you like maximum butterfat (which Graeter's delivers) or supersweetness (an Aglamesis trait).

I did not compare the two side by side, but let me tell you that I never would kick Aglamesis Bros. ice cream off my table! Pumpkin -- an autumn-only flavor -- was as dark as Indian pudding, a just-right balance of spice and cream. Fresh banana delivered real equatorial fruit flavor and was haloed magnificently by a bounteous application of house-made bittersweet chocolate sauce, plus dense whipped cream and a hail of chopped pecans.

There is a second location at 9899 Montgomery Rd., Cincinnati, OH. 513-791-7082
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Roadfood of the Day: Cielito Lindo - Los Angeles, CA
Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2016

Cielito Lindo has occupied the same spot on Olvera Street since 1934.
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Roadfood of the Day: Smoque - Chicago, IL
Posted on Friday, February 12, 2016

Meals come in wide metal trays. Clockwise from top left: Peach cobbler, French fries, St. Louis cut ribs, macaroni and cheese and bbq sauce.
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Roadfood of the Day: Rip's - Ladd, IL
Posted on Thursday, February 11, 2016

Crunchies come with every meal, accompanied by a ramekin of pickle chips. They are one of the great fried foods on earth: chicken-fat-flavored, deep-fried batter.
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Posted by Michael Stern on Wednesday, February 10, 2016 4:20 AM

Baked things star at BenGable Savories: quiche and frittatas, loaf cakes and scones, pot pies and tarts, and melt-in-the-mouth crème fraiche biscuits with crusty edge and fluffy insides, served warm with fresh fruit jam and premium butter from local dairies. In fact, much of the provender here is local: fruits and vegetables in season, eggs and cream from nearby farms. Baguettes used for many of the sandwiches are not local, though. They come from Tribeca Oven, which started in New York and is now in New Jersey. They are chewy, crusty, full-flavored and just about as good as a baguette can be.

I especially like this bread when wrapped around salami, roasted fennel, arugula pesto, and orange aioli: a tremendously satisfying sandwich. Slices of good sourdough are the right thing for BenGable’s fine turkey sandwich, in which thick slices of bird are dressed with a layer of pimento cheese and crisp bread-and-butter pickles. A whole other kind of sandwich is this kitchen’s croque monsieur: ham and gruyere cheese on peasant bread, dipped in egg and baked until the outside is brittle and the ingredients have melded together and become as tender as supersavory custard. When you slice through the crust, the very aroma of this sandwich is intoxicating. Add a fried egg on top and it becomes a croque madame.

Given BenGable’s focus on baked goods, it’s not surprising that breakfast is a good time to eat here. Stumptown coffee from Portland (Oregon) is featured on the menu, available regular, espresso, or cold-brewed in bottles. Aside from a sour cherry scone and blueberry corn bread, my favorite thing to eat is a simple length of toasted baguette, available in a few ways. You can have it plainly buttered with good jam on the side; you can have it buttered and salted and drizzled with honey – a devastating sweet-salty powerhouse; and you can have it buttered and lightly salted and spread with a slick emulsion of dark, barely sweet chocolate. The mix of bread and butter and chocolate pinged with salt is at once elegant and overwhelming.
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Roadfood of the Day: Las Fuentes - Reseda, CA
Posted on Wednesday, February 10, 2016

Freshly grilled flank steak tacos in soft corn tortillas topped with diced jalapenos, onions, and salsa negra
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Posted by Michael Stern on Tuesday, February 9, 2016 6:36 AM

After a barrel full of trouble (legal, marital, labor, utility) closed it in April, the Carnegie Deli is reopening today, February 9th at 8am. (The Carnegie's formal mascot, by the way, is Dilly the Pickle.) We have reactivated the review.

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