What To Eat in Louisiana
No state has a more distinctive cuisine than Louisiana. From spectacular seafood feasts in the Creole palaces of New Orleans to boudin sausage and cracklin’ munchies in the butcher shops of Cajun country, it’s a taste-buds orgy. Effulgent po boys are a Crescent City essential, as are oysters every-which-way and café au lait with beignets. Outside the city, look for crawfish, meat pies, and country-style gumbo.
The Louisiana meat pie is a brightly seasoned mélange of pork and beef enclosed in a half-circle pastry crust. It is deep fried until the crust is golden crisp and the meat inside is steaming hot. Most people get one for lunch, sided by dirty rice and a good southern vegetable such as okra or greens, but it’s not uncommon to see someone having a meat pie at 7am alongside a couple of fried eggs and grits glistening with melted butter. Most places that make meat pies also offer crawfish pies, especially during Lent.
A specialty of butchers throughout Cajun country, boudin is a sausage of pork, rice, onions, and spice. It is not firm like an Italian sausage. Once cut, it tends to spill, tumble, or gets squeezed out depending on the link's consistency. It comes in shades of beige, hot ones tinged pepper red, some speckled with a confetti of green and yellow onion. Differences among them can be subtle. Are the rice grains firm or soft? Is the pork pulverized or rough-hewn? Does it glisten? Does it have a sweet, fresh smell? Does the filling drip unctuously or is it dry?
Like Louisiana cuisine itself, gumbo is all about mixing, matching, blending, and creating something glorious from sundry elements. A staple of kitchens in New Orleans as well as in the Cajun countryside, its cooking canon has only a few rules: It should contain rice (cooked separately and added after the soup itself is made); it should start with a roux made of flour and fat (preferably lard); and it must be thickened as it cooks, using either okra or filé powder. Most gumbos are loaded with ingredients and radiantly spiced, and while virtually no element is taboo, the most commonly encountered varieties are seafood gumbo, made with crawfish, shrimp, crab and / or oysters and sausage gumbo, almost always including duck or chicken. During Lent, it is not uncommon to come across meatless gumbo z'herbs, featuring varieties of greens.
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A modern butcher shop and grocery in the heart of Cajun country, Don's serves dramatically delicious plate lunch, especially Saturday's BBQ smoked pork chop.
Strawn's is the place to go in Shreveport for great pie -- especially strawberry ice box -- and comfort food. Dining room decor includes attractive murals.
A New Orleans best bet for oysters every which way, Casamento's is known for its oyster loaf: like an oversize po boy loaded with crackle-crusted fried oysters.
Expertly-made toasted po boys put Villager's on the good-eats map of Cajun country. Best ingredients: pot roast and meatballs. Great French fries, too.
It's a casual cafe, but enthusiastic service and brilliant Cajun food make T-Coon's a great destination restaurant for breakfast and lunch in Lafayette.
Pastries are swell at New Orleans' French Truck coffee roaster, but excellent espressos, drips, and cold brew make it an essential morning stop.
Bergeron's is a remote Cajun boucherie and restaurant where everything is cooked with essence of smoke. Don’t miss the famous chicken patties.
Singleton's is a friendly family bodega that's a Tulane favorite for overstuffed Asian-fusion Po-Boys and daily Vietnamese specialties.
Proudly “in the middle of nowhere,” Hawk's is a roadhouse destination for pristine purged crawfish, boiled in delicate spices. Great shrimp, too!