Evo

South Carolina is not a hotbed of great pizza. But Lowcountry cooks are famously talented; and Evo – an acronym for Extra Virgin Oven – is evidence that those creative juices combined with local products and a wood-fired oven can equal outstanding pizza.

But first, if it’s summer, consider a panzanella salad made with big chunks of boomingly delicious heirloom tomatoes and significant house-made croutons along with pickled red onion, crumbles of creamy local blue cheese, and basil, all dressed with bright balsamic vinaigrette.

Pizza is cooked in a roaring wood-fired oven, emerging with crust that is lightweight, easy to chew. Toppings range from basic margherita to such inventions as pistachio pesto topped with mozzarella (made here daily) and just enough crème fraiche to elevate the eating experience into wanton excess. We have enjoyed a special of locally made feta along with fresh okra and a puree of roasted garlic and corn as well as the oh-so-southern “pork trifecta” of house-made sausage, pepperoni, and smoked bacon.

When Evo is too crowded (it often is), consider walking around back for somewhat lighter eats at Evo’s Craft Bakery. Here you find a menu of sandwiches, desserts, coffees and chocolate, some small-plate dinners, as well as a repertoire of superb hearth-baked baguettes, boules, and batards.