Codfather

Seafood-frying skills of Lowcountry chefs are legendary, but the Codfather’s fried fish is something else. Unlike the thin, fragile coat on most of the other excellent fried shrimp, flounder, oysters, and scallops in this region, the big piece of fish you get here is swaddled in a substantial blanket of beer batter. By substantial, I do not mean heavy or cloddish in any way. In fact, it is elegant, virtually melting into pure flavor as soon as it’s bitten. That flavor and the crunch of the coat sing significant harmony with the sweetest, lightest fish imaginable: a perfect-pitch duet.

This being a “proper” fish & chips joint, the big fillets come piled atop a mountain of crisp-edged French fries that are big enough to sport a shaft of smooth, creamy potato within. Tartar sauce and cocktail sauce are made on premises.

Consistent with the Anglo theme, the short menu also offers savory chicken pies, mushy peas, sausage rolls, and fish butties (sandwiches).

To drink with such a meal, of course you want an interesting brew, chosen from a menu that ranges from PBR tall boys and bottled Yuengling to draughts of Guinness, Murphy’s and Magners cider.

Yes, it’s a British-themed restaurant, but in a city where brilliant fried seafood is a signature dish, the Codfather fits right in.