A North Charleston treasure with a broad menu of soul food classics, including many with a Gullah accent, My Three Sons demands multiple visits to have some of everything. It’s all very, very good.
Fundamental fried chicken comes encased in russet crust as savory as bacon. Ox tail meat really does melt in the mouth. Crisp-fried, bone-in catfish is bright and creamy.
All the good entrees are accompanied by fabulous side dishes. Rice in particular is a big deal. What’s here known as hoppin’ John is, in fact, a variant of Gullah rice: dark, bold, brilliant. The dish billed as Gullah rice is like that, but also includes sausage and shrimp. Seafood rice includes shrimp, scallops, and crab: a hearty meal unto itself. Mac & cheese is a festival of texture, from crunch to cream; baby lima beans are butter-rich.
The dessert menu is dauntingly large, including tender red velvet cake, banana pudding as smooth as silk, peach cobbler, bread pudding, and what might be the best sweet potato pie on the planet: creamy, spicy, at once earthy and ethereal.
It’s a friendly, homespun place, out-of-the-way and humble indeed. But don’t let its modest mien fool you. The meals served at My Three Sons are paragons.