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In many restaurants, salad is nothing but lettuce and a scattering of uninteresting vegetables poured from a bag into a bowl and offered as an obligatory beginning of the meal, accompanied by cellophane packs of saltines. On the other hand, salad can be the headliner: a flamboyantly-made Caesar salad, a crazy Sicilian salad with oranges and anchovies, a clean-the-kitchen Cobb salad. The only thing all salads have in common is that they are a mix of two or more ingredients, at least one of them uncooked. Most salads are cool, but Midwestern wilted lettuce may be room temperature and potato salad may be warm. Salad for dessert? Yes, indeed. In some parts of the country, Jell-O is known as salad (or “congealed salad”), as are ambrosia and pineapple fluff. In the heartland, it is common to find an assortment of puddings on salad bars.