I’ve yet to fully explore what OWL Bakery is best-known for and what it’s proudest of — such Old World loaves as sourdough rye, pumpernickel boules, seeded batards, baguettes, and brioches. They look fantastic, and I have had a few gorgeous slices of OWL bread as the basis of sandwiches; but even if the bread wasn’t world-class, I’d sing huzzahs just for OWL’s spectacular pastries.
First, they are a joy to look at, as pretty as pastry can be. But these are not display-beautiful models; their color and sparkle reflect flavor that fairly bursts on the tongue: fruit at the peak of freshness, flaky croissants glowing with butter flavor, curds and creams that truly taste of farm life at its most bucolic.
Everything is a cut above, including even house-pressed juices, robust coffee (available with mocha, vanilla-cardamom, and lavender syrups, or cream from local cows). Among my favorites eats are elegant strudels both sweet and savory, a cloud-light morning bun laced with orange flavor, quiche that is unconscionably creamy, and an absolutely stunning tart in which fresh fruits are bedded atop sassafras cream in a buckwheat shell.
Thanks to Paula Basher for tipping me off to this great place. And by the way, OWL stands for Old World Levain.
Other Nearby Restaurants
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Tommy’s Country Ham House
Greenville, South CarolinaTommy’s is a big, happy eating hall featuring Greenville’s best biscuits & country ham in the morning and meat-and-3 lunch.
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Hole Hot Doughnuts and Fresh Coffee
Asheville, North CarolinaDonuts are made to order in this well-crafted image of a vintage shop where the repertoire is limited to 4 flavors daily. Locally-roasted coffee is terrific.
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Junction of Gowensville
Landrum, South CarolinaThe Junction is an upstate South Carolina crossroads cafe renowned for its country-style buffet, which always features sublime, gnarled-crust fried chicken.
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Rural Seed
Columbus, North CarolinaBilling its fare as “wholesome, familiar food,” the Rural Seed is a 3-meal-a-day town cafe where everything is a cut above. Breakfast is noteworthy.
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Harvest House
Landrum, South CarolinaExpect the unexpected at Harvest House, where even familiar dishes are served with a twist. Don’t miss the fried green tomato tower. Burgers are grand.
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Caro-Mi Dining Room
Tryon, North CarolinaOn the banks of the Pacolet River in the Blue Ridge Mountain foothills, Caro-Mi is a dreamy destination for old-time Dixie comfort food.