OWL Bakery

I’ve yet to fully explore what OWL Bakery is best-known for and what it’s proudest of — such Old World loaves as sourdough rye, pumpernickel boules, seeded batards, baguettes, and brioches. They look fantastic, and I have had a few gorgeous slices of OWL bread as the basis of sandwiches; but even if the bread wasn’t world-class, I’d I’d sing huzzahs just for OWL’s spectacular pastries.

First, they are a joy to look at, as pretty as pastry can be. But these are not display-beautiful models; their color and sparkle reflect flavor that fairly bursts on the tongue: fruit at the peak of freshness, flaky croissants glowing with butter flavor,  curds and creams that truly taste of farm life at its most bucolic.

Everything is a cut above, including even house-pressed juices, robust coffee (available with mocha, vanilla-cardamom, and lavender syrups, or cream from local cows). Among my favorites eats are elegant strudels both sweet and savory, a cloud-light morning bun laced with orange flavor, quiche that is unconscionably creamy, and an absolutely stunning tart in which fresh fruits are bedded atop sassafras cream in a buckwheat shell.

In addition to pastries, the dine-in menu features toasts, sandwiches, a lovely salad garlanded with pickled onions, house-made granola (with either local or oat milk), and even a wine list. Food is served until 4pm.

Thanks to Paula Basher for tipping me off to this great place. And by the way, OWL stands for Old World Levain.