Smoky Park Supper Club

The backdrop for Smoky Park Supper Club is picture-perfect: On a roomy piece of land next to the French Broad River, the restaurant has ample outdoor space and plenty of bistro lights.

On sunny Sundays, brunch is an outdoor affair that includes live music. We are lucky to be seated outside next to a window where the two-person band is soulfully covering familiar classics like Purple Rain and Tiny Dancer.

Mini strawberry muffins are served with what tastes like a whipped butter/cream cheese situation with bits of lime zest. They’re soft and light, with chunks of fresh strawberries. It’s a nice, different way to start the meal, and not as heavy as a plate of biscuits.

A Bulgogi bowl is built atop fresh greens, topped with thinly sliced steak and pickled jalapeños. A crisp rice cake soaks up the meat’s juices, egg yolk, and sambal mayo. It’s a “perfect bite” dish.

The chicken sandwich is on a very soft bun and slathered with just-melted pimento cheese. The chicken has a thick breading, and big pieces of it spill off the bun. Smoky-seasoned home fries are served in a tiny cast-iron dish.

Kale salad is big enough to be a main event, with bits of sweet granola, fresh blueberries, blackberries, and peaches, and a chunk of ciabatta. It’s drizzled with creamy lemon yogurt dressing.

The building, made of old shipping containers, has an expansive, industrial feel. Service is friendly, if a little slow and disjointed. Should you want to wile away the afternoon, there’s a bar inside an Airstream on the lawn, serving cold beer and frosé.