Freeman’s Bar-B-Q

Freeman’s superb barbecued pork is available in a sandwich or on a platter. I definitely recommend the latter, mostly because it is such a joy to fork through the beautiful meat, but also because platters come with side dishes, which are excellent. Hash on rice is notable for the fresh, luxurious nature of the hash, made with both beef and pork. Mac ‘n’ cheese is a comfort-food classic, its noodles suspended in rich, eggy custard.

Dessert is the one menu item that Mr. Freeman does not make himself. Lovely lemon pound cake, sold by the slice, comes from a local woman named Tricia. It is good cake, especially welcome as a tender final note after a meal of such kaleidoscopic flavors.

Located on a desolate road just across the river from Augusta, Freeman’s is a well-worn enterprise, utterly without the spit and polish of a corporate-created restaurant. It exudes character, and once you walk in the door, hospitality reigns. Mr. Freeman has plenty of regular customers, but also a fair share of BBQ pilgrims with whom he is delighted to talk about smokehouse practice. His restaurant has become a Beech Island icon, embodying a soulful community spirit. When the notorious ice storm of winter, 2014, knocked out power, he cooked up everything he had in his refrigerator to bring to the local shelter for folks who were hungry. While he was cooking, he got a call from a woman who asked if he was open. He told her he was not, because without electricity he had no lights. She replied, “I don’t need no light to eat your barbecue.”

Note: Freeman’s is open only Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, for lunch and early supper.