By Jane and Michael Stern Originally Published 2008 Gourmet Magazine Texas is brisket territory, but it is no lone-meat state. Pit-cooked sausage is also required eating, especially in the barbecue shrines south and east of Austin. Peppered, coarse-ground beef is packed into pork gut that is porous enough to suck in flavor from woodsmoke as … Continue reading Cue the Smoke
Cue the Smoke
August 19th, 2019 by Lorelai Dunn
On a Roll
August 19th, 2019 by Lorelai Dunn
By Jane and Michael Stern Originally Published 2008 Gourmet Magazine Thank the aquifer below the New Jersey Pinelands for the best submarine sandwich on earth. Its pure water—the pH lowered by the cedars growing above it—is what makes the bread on which the sub is built so precisely right. “It’s the softest, cleanest water anywhere,” … Continue reading On a Roll
A Little Chili in Kansas
August 19th, 2019 by Lorelai Dunn
By Jane and Michael Stern Originally Published 2008 Gourmet Magazine The persistent voice from our car’s GPS sounded like that of a prim librarian having a nervous breakdown. “Recalculating … recalculating … recalculating.” Our overtaxed digital assistant directed us to one dead end after another at the railroad tracks separating downtown Topeka from the isolated … Continue reading A Little Chili in Kansas
Leave it to Cleaver
August 19th, 2019 by Lorelai Dunn
By Jane and Micheal Stern Originally Published 2008 Gourmet Magazine The barbecue of eastern North Carolina tastes great. But long before you begin eating it, you smell it and hear it. The air surrounding each of the region’s top pits is so heavily perfumed with the scent of halved hogs sizzling on a grate, their … Continue reading Leave it to Cleaver
Skillet Set
August 19th, 2019 by Lorelai Dunn
By Jane and Michael Stern Originally Published 2007 Gourmet Magazine Nashville’s crunkest hot-fish sandwich is also its biggest. The Giant King, signature dish at Eastside Fish, is a pair of whiting fillets, each at least a half pound, dredged in seasoned cornmeal and fried crisp, then sandwiched between doubled slices of soft supermarket white bread. The … Continue reading Skillet Set
Plains Dandy
August 19th, 2019 by Lorelai Dunn
By Jane and Michael Stern Originally Published 2007 Gourmet Magazine Are you hankering for a bracing bowl of garlicky menudo, thick with pozole puffs and tripe, and sparkling with fresh-squeezed lime? Do you like your burrito festooned with bright-colored pico de gallo that packs lip-searing jalapeño bite? How about a spill of smoky green chile to smother a pair of … Continue reading Plains Dandy
In Hog Heaven
August 19th, 2019 by Lorelai Dunn
By Jane and Micheal Stern Originally Published 2007 Gourmet Magazine On a beautiful Portland, Oregon, spring day, Gretchen Eichentopf described the scene at Otto’s Sausage Kitchen just a few months earlier. In mid-January, snow and ice had paralyzed the city, but Gretchen’s husband, Jerry (Otto’s grandson), lit coals in the sidewalk grill and cooked hot dogs as … Continue reading In Hog Heaven
Alto Appalachia
August 19th, 2019 by Lorelai Dunn
By Jane and Michael Stern Originally Published 2007 Gourmet Magazine A sheaf of pencil-thin twigs of pepperoni is folded inside a tube of yeast dough. After the dough has risen, the whole thing is baked: that’s a pepperoni roll, the savory snack of choice throughout north-central West Virginia. A cooked roll is a wieldy handful … Continue reading Alto Appalachia
Links Course
August 19th, 2019 by Lorelai Dunn
By Jane and Michael Stern Originally Published 2007 Gourmet Magazine Denny Gray, proprietor of Al’s Quality Market, in Barberton, Ohio, opens the door of his smoker. Hot, white clouds billow out forcefully enough to fog glasses and make eyes tear, and the fragrances of garlic, summer sausage, and spareribs fill the air. “Here is our … Continue reading Links Course