Memorable | One of the Best
Review by: Michael Stern
A squeezeburger looks more like a work of art than lunch — not a fancy-food work of art, but hash-house art, for sure.
Onto a handsome, hand-pattied 1/3-pound circle of grilling beef the short-order cook piles a double fistful of shredded cheese. The heat of the meat and the grill around it causes the cheese to melt and to flow like heavy lava out beyond the edges of the hamburger it covers. When it hits the grill it sizzles and starts to cook. By the time the burgermeister lifts it off the metal, the circumference of the cheese has become brittle-crisp, an inner aura closer to the meat is chewy and pliable, and, of course, the cheese that has remained on top is creamy smooth. The cheese spill is so extensive and the ring of hardened, chewy cheese that circles the burger so broad that when meat is bunned, a short-fingered person might have trouble picking it up like a normal sandwich. It’s that long a reach from the outside of the cheese ring to the bun.
Note: There are 2 other locations of the Squeeze Inn, at 1630 K St. in Sacramento (916-492-2499) and 545 Industrial Dr., Galt (209-745-4313).
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