Excellent | Worth a Detour
Bacon & Butter
Review by: Jess Dawson
Bacon & Butter has two locations; Friday morning, we’re at the one in East Sacramento on J Street, and, as usual, there’s a wait in line. The surrounding neighborhood is beautiful, worth a pre- or post-meal stroll (a great way to pass the time when there’s a wait).
An outdoor patio bustles with dogs on leashes and babies in strollers. The inside space is beautiful and bright, with succulents adorning each table. Small pitchers of cold milk arrive with hot coffee.
Executive Chef and owner Billy Zoellin shops at the local farmers’ markets and tries to source as many ingredients as possible from local farms and vendors. He chooses humanely-raised meat from local providers like Beeler’s, and does not believe in off-season produce (read: no tomatoes in winter).
That does not mean we’re wanting for anything. In fact, we’re tempted by most of the menu, including items like a grilled cheese Benedict and peaches and cream French toast. There’s also a biscuit sandwich with caramelized onions, “a cheddar cheese skirt” and chive mascarpone; some “lunchish” items (a burger, grilled cheese, and baby green); a 3/4 pound bacon platter to share; and smashed fries with bacon gravy.
We settle on thick buttermilk pancakes that take six minutes on the griddle, which is apparently what makes them so thick and tender. The chef also reportedly leaves the batter slightly lumpy. They’re served with diced fruit, warm maple syrup, and whipped butter.
Chile verde hash is made with tender tomatillo-braised pork butt, potatoes, pasilla, black beans, griddled onions, two eggs, and salsa verde. It’s an ample serving, and we finish every bite.
Fried green tomato Benedict includes melt-in-your-mouth bits of lardon and light, lemony Béarnaise. Fresh corn, tangy cotija, and spicy arugula come on the side along with a pretty dish of fruit.
The name does nod to the restaurant’s affiliation for butter and bacon, but not everything has both ingredients. There are also some vegetarian and lighter plates, too … but where’s the fun in that?
Directions & Hours
|Meals Served||Breakfast, Lunch|
|Credit Cards Accepted||Yes|