Southern Comfort

Believe the name. Southern Comfort serves fine examples of Dixie classics, from hearty Brunswick stew to spare ribs to banana pudding in a Mason jar.

Not everything is totally familiar. Unless you are a student of Alabama foodways, smoke-cooked chicken might be a surprise. It comes glazed with what first appears to be white gravy, but in fact turns out to be the curious local specialty — white BBQ sauce. A bit mayonnaisy and slightly spicy, it is a great companion for chicken; and this chicken is wonderful: tender, smoky, moist, with crisped golden skin.

Among side dishes, I like mashed potatoes best. They are lumpy, dense, and buttery and a great companion for just about any meat. Fried green tomatoes are less wonderful, rather pale in flavor although their crumbly coat does offer satisfying crunch.

Desserts are a big deal. Abundant banana pudding is served in a Mason jar, and there always are a few cakes of the day. I very much enjoyed a slice of caramel apple cake, which is spicy, moist, and just-right sweet.

Located on a side road off Highway 31, Southern Comfort is a bright, welcoming restaurant that offers a respectful taste of the modern South. It’s an easy-off, easy-on detour just a minute or so from I-65 Exit 164.