The Napoleon torte, featured attraction at Omaha’s Lithuanian Bakery, is exquisite. A Baltic cake of eight fragile wafer layers ribboned with vanilla buttercream, lemon buttercream and a thin vein of apricot jam, it is sold whole or by the slice. But this is not eating-out-of-hand fare; fork, knife, and plate are required. It tends to shatter and tumble when even lightly pressed, like a regular Napoleon but more complicated. There is no place to sit and eat at the Lithuanian Bakery on 33rd Avenue. However, there are tables and meal service at the sister Lithuanian Bakery & Cafe, located at 7427 Pacific St., in Omaha. (402-391-3503)
Beyond the signature Napoleon torte, this humble neighborhood bake shop sells a bevvy of freshly made breads, cakes, cookies and kolaches. Everything I’ve tried is swell, especially a poppy seed kolache, a luxurious hazelnut torte, and a big square of blueberry coffee cake that sparkles with sour cream in the batter and nuts on top.
I assumed the bakery’s well-respected bacon bun is its version of a runza, which is the pocket meal unique to East Nebraska — soft dough enclosing a lode of meat. But the nice lady behind the counter explained to me that bacon buns are virtually the national dish of Lithuania, where they are known as lasineciai. Inside a pocket of roll dough are packed tender pearls of bacon and bits of cooked-soft onion. It’s a magic combination, not to be missed.