Johnny’s has been Omaha’s steak house since 1922. At the edge of the stockyards, it was once a café for cowboys and cow shippers. Now it is a grand-scale restaurant with well-upholstered chairs, broadloom carpets, and modernistic chandeliers. More than its steaks, which are aged on premises and can be pretty darn good, especially when draped with the kitchen’s dark mushroom gravy, we love Johnny’s baronial ambiance, especially because it is balanced by service that is as folksy as in any small-town café, courtesy of waitresses unafraid to scold you if you don’t finish your T-bone but then want dessert.
Beef is king in this dining room. Steaks, chops, ribs, and liver are the things to order. You can splurge at dinner and eat plush filets mignon or chateaubriand for two, and pay accordingly — easily $100 for a couple; or have yourself a hot beef sandwich at lunch for under $10.
Dessert is corny and ingratiating, including crème de menthe sundaes and clear blocks of Chuckles-colored Jell-O. Turtle pie is a weighty affair – a frozen block of the same ingredients used in Turtles candy, with the addition of ice cream: chocolate, nuts, and caramel. Johnny’s serves it still fairly well frozen, so you will have all sorts of merry fun trying to fork off a piece. Once defrosted, It is as gooey and sweet as candy, but richer.