Roscoe’s House of Chicken ’n Waffles

A longtime favorite of ours from the Sterns’ 2002 Roadfood book, Roscoe’s has since expanded to several stores on West Pico, West Manchester, and in Long Beach, Pasadena, and other locales. The original restaurant in Hollywood, just off of Sunset Boulevard, always draws a diverse crowd of hungry eaters, especially around closing time when the pack gets even more colorful. Depending on which reviews the astute customer reads, the food quality varies from visit to visit, and amateur critics also include negligent service and lousy parking.

We arrived at Roscoe’s on a triumphantly “on” night, and the food was beyond magnificent. Wanting to try the full range of chicken accompaniments, we ordered a thigh and “delicious waffle” plate as well as a house combo consisting of a “succulent breast,” mac & cheese, greens, and cornbread. The chicken was more-than-satisfying, tasting as if it had emerged from the kitchen of a grand old Southern lady rather than what is likely a Hollywood fry vat. The exterior was delightfully crisp and devoid of excess grease, the meat inside juicy and flavorful. Always somewhat skeptical about macaroni & cheese (will it be Kraft? Velveeta?), we were delightfully surprised by what we found in the small, overstuffed dish. The inconsistent texture (creamy cheese punctuated by crunchy clumps of breading) indicated that Roscoe’s version was homemade and is almost as good as any Southern-state offering.

The waffle is an exemplar of the thin variety that was formerly the norm around the country. This slender style (and the irons that make them) is harder to find in the wake of the Belgian waffle trend, and some say it’s in danger of becoming extinct. Roscoe’s proudly makes thousands of these every week, and their malted batter cooks to a tawny color. Is there anything better than watching a pat of butter melt and pool into each nook and cranny? This is truly waffle perfection, punctuated by excellent chicken and sides. The collards were grand, and the cake-like cornbread was the only weak link here.

A slice of sweet potato pie for dessert caps the experience. Ask for whipped cream on the side so as to savor the pie’s goodness before adding the dairy delight. Roscoe’s is definitely one Roadfood site that is universally known; the Travel Channel placed it at No. 2 in the “Top 101 Tastiest Places to Chowdown” series. Sure, their website has gotten a little flashier since the 2004 feature-length film (self-described as “a finger-lickin’ comedy”) was released and celebrities were spotted sporting Roscoe’s T-shirts on Melrose Avenue, but the once-humble eatery is still pleasingly significant for spreading the chicken & waffles word worldwide—and spawning dozens of similarly themed restaurants across the land.