Artisan ice cream is a rarity in the Deep South, and while Edisto River Creamery is no exception to that rule, I make a point of enjoying some licks here whenever I pass by. The product is plebeian– from a mix, I’m sure — but becomes a happy treat when configured in a milk shake or as the foundation for an enthusiastic sundae. Top of the line is a banana boat: three large dollops (preferably vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry) set upon a bed of halved bananas and topped with hot fudge, butterscotch, pineapple chunks, strawberries, chopped nuts, whipped cream, and a Maraschino cherry. Unless you are really, really hungry, it’s enough for two.

While the ice cream is fine in its modest way, the foot-long hot dog really is special. It’s all-beef, dense and garlicky, bisected and cooked on a grill until its edges begin to crisp. I like it topped with meaty (no bean) chili, chopped raw onions, and yellow mustard; sauerkraut and other condiments also are available. Hot dog accompaniments include pasta salad, potato salad, or cole slaw as well as hand-cut French fries. Cooked in clean peanut oil, the fries are thick enough to offer brittle edges and creamy middles. They’re a best dish. The menu also lists a short selection of cold sandwiches and pulled-pork BBQ.

Located on a main road heading into (or out of) the city, Edisto River Creamery & Kitchen is a homey place infused with its proprietors’ personalities. Decor includes professions of Christian faith, expressions of gratitude, and general life encouragement to those who crave it.