Start with one of America’s finest pizza makers: De Lorenzo’s Tomato Pies on Hudson Street in Trenton, New Jersey. Add a selection of salads and a bathroom (there was none at Hudson Street). What do you get? De Lorenzo’s Tomato Pies in Robbinsville, NJ. Yes, Robbinsville may be the suburbs, and the new restaurant sure is spacious and modern, but the pizzas that emerge from those ovens are identical to the ones served at the original location in Trenton (which closed in 2012).
De Lo’s world-class tomato pies are built upon extremely thin, crisp crusts. Canned tomatoes are used, not tomato sauce. There’s no hail of dried herbs here, just tomatoes, a modest amount of cheese, the toppings of your choice, and oil. The philosophy is balance, not extravagance. Toppings are applied sparingly; don’t expect pizzas weighted down with pounds of meats and cheeses. We know people who consider one large pie per person about right.
The Robbinsville location added a few new topping options to the menu. You can now get things like fresh basil, artichokes, and roasted peppers, but our favorite toppings still include the juicy, chunky sausage and toothsome thick-sliced pepperoni. White pies with broccoli or spinach are also recommended.
As in many of the great pizzerias, salads have been added to the menu, and these are not mere formalities. They do a terrific job with salads, and we’ve enjoyed all kinds of seasonal combinations of pristine greens topped with things like juicy fresh blackberries, perfectly ripe and sweet heirloom tomatoes, sharp cheese, and toasted pine nuts.
De Lorenzo is open for lunch four days a week and dinner six days a week but, no matter which day you go, expect to wait for a table if you arrive at a normal mealtime (they do not take reservations). If you really don’t like to wait the best approach is to arrive when they open, 11 am for lunch, 4 pm for dinner, when you should be able to waltz right to a table. They do not have a liquor license (a scarce commodity in New Jersey).