City Billiards

The main culinary attraction at City Billiards is a cheeseburger, which is, according to the sign outside, “the best cheeseburger you’ll ever eat.” I don’t necessarily agree with that assertion, but this is one heck of a fine burger, a half-pound of ground short rib and chuck, pattied thick and beautifully grilled, its velvety insides ready to drip juice at first bite. If you order one, you will be asked how you want it dressed. “What’s normal here?” I inquire, and receive mine with mayonnaise, mustard, shredded lettuce, sliced tomato, and raw onions. It is a handsome and delicious package.

A wonderful array of specialty burgers includes a Southern Stack (with a fried green tomato, gouda cheese, and caramelized onions), a Caribbean (with ghost pepper cheese and a jolt of jerk seasoning), a Southern BBQ burger, and a Kitchen Sink burger with the works. A Knife & Fork Burger comes freighted with French fries and vividly woodsy mushroom pan gravy.

City Billiards, which really does have a couple of six-pocket tables at the back of the dining room, offers a broad bar menu of sandwiches, salads, and wings with and without bones. Among locals, it is a spot for lunch and casual supper. Despite the tavern-like mise-en-scene, families feel right at home.