Taj Aiken

What I know about Indian cuisine wouldn’t fill a tadka spoon, but having enjoyed several meals at Taj Aiken — at its first location in the old Hotel Aiken, now up the street a few yards —  I want to know more. Well, really, I want to eat more. And more. Everything I’ve tried at Taj is stunning.

Let’s start with naan. Every meal should include some. The glistening flatbreads are available brushed with garlic, onion or chili flakes, each with a distinct personality, all sharing buttery flavor and puffy-crisp weightlessness. They’re great for mopping and dipping into curries and vindaloos and a pleasure to eat all by themselves.

Taj Aiken’s vindaloo is magnificent. It comes pepper-hot unless you ask the kitchen to tone it down or unless you are a masochist and want it even hotter. As is, it can set tongue aglow and drain sinuses, but within that heat is swirl of flavor that seems almost intoxicating.

Curries, both vegetarian and those made with chicken, lamb, or shrimp, are mildly spiced. When they are ladled onto the basmati rice that all tables get, they are a sort of subcontinental comfort food. Not that they are bland or boring! The swirl of spice is only more subtle.

The menu is huge. I’ve yet to eat anything that didn’t fascinate my taste buds. I recommend Taj Aiken to anyone with an adventurous palate.

Note: Lunch is available both buffet style and off a menu. Dinner is menu-order only.