B Line

I’ve barely put a dent in the B Line menu, but what I have tasted makes me want to return: fresh, chunky guacamole to start and first-rate fish tacos after that.

Tacos are of the nutritionally enlightened sort, made with blackened, not fried, fish. In this case, the fish is mahi-mahi, its firm flesh edged by smoky spice. To accompany it in the soft corn tortillas are slices of ripe avocado, cabbage, jack cheese, and creamy Baja sauce. Other available tacos include carne asada and grilled chicken.

It’s not easy to pigeonhole The B Line. In addition to such southwestern fare as tacos, burritos, and quesadillas, there’s a roster of pastas as well as an Italian sausage & pepper sandwich. It opens at 8am, serving pancakes, breakfast burritos, bagels, and house-made granola.

The menu is well-populated with vegetarian dishes: a feta-jack burrito, a roasted veggie sandwich, a black bean burger. Many items can be prepared to fit a vegan diet, too.

Dessert is a big deal. B Line Pastry chef Terri LaChance promises to make everything from scratch using the best all-natural ingredients. A view of beautiful things in the rotating pie case suggests she fulfills her goal; and my slice of caramel apple pie confirms it. This is a majestic piece of pie, balancing sweet/tart apples that are still slightly al dente with the burnt-sugar seduction of sophisticated caramel sauce.

In my sights for the next visit: black bottom banana cream pie, fruit tart with chocolate-gilded crust, and hibiscus-poached pear pie.