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The original configuration of a fish taco is pieces of deep-fried white fish in a spicy batter bedded on a yogurt-mayonnaise sauce in a soft tortilla along with rough-cut shreds of cool white cabbage and a wedge of lime. That’s the way it was when Ralph Rubio introduced fish tacos to San Diego back in 1978. Having enjoyed them on a trip down to Baja, he figured they’d be appreciated in the U.S., too. So he opened Rubio’s, “Home of the Fish Taco,” which quickly became a multi-outlet success. It wasn’t long before imitators beyond southern California picked up on the idea. Today’s fish tacos, found in Mexican restaurants everywhere, are a varied lot, including some made with upscale non-fried fish as well as interesting salsas.