Acropolis

Acropolis pizzas can be had with all the customary Italian-American toppings (sausage, mushrooms, etc.), but “Specialty Gourmet Pizzas” are the highlight. Some of them have names that suggest Mediterranean travel: Riviera (ricotta, mozzarella, garlic, oregano, peppers, artichoke, eggplant), Florentine (feta, mozzarella, garlic, oregano, spinach, eggplant, artichokes), and Greek Acropolis (feta, mozzarella, gyro meat, fresh tomatoes, onion, garlic). The Magnificent Greek is feta, mozzarella, spinach, olives, onions, and garlic

These pizzas can be a hugely satisfying meal – not textbook Greek or Italian, but very much melting-pot American.

Those not in the market for pizza can avail themselves of Italian pasta dishes as well as such Greek classics as roast lamb, moussaka, and spanakopita. In my experience, these items are a hit-and-miss proposition. Best of the bunch is roasted Greek lemon chicken with Greek potatoes. In this case “Greek” means the essential roasting potion of lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, and oregano, the brilliant flavors of which infuse the chicken’s skin and turn what elsewhere might be perfunctory potatoes into the most memorable part of the dish. Less felicitous is a gyro plate with sad slabs of dried-out meat.