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The two best places to eat a brisket sandwich are a Jewish deli and a Texas BBQ parlor. In a deli, the beef will have been braised for hours, turning fall-apart tender; in Texas, it will have been smoke-cooked for hours, equally tender, with a mesquite or live oak twist. In the deli, mustard is a standard condiment. In the heart of Texas, brisket condiments are anathema. It’s juicy enough.