Buckwheat’s BBQ

** THIS RESTAURANT IS PERMANENTLY CLOSED **

The tumbledown ambience of so many excellent BBQ parlors is lacking at Buckwheat’s, which is a clean and tidy, family-friendly place to eat. But don’t let its decorous demeanor dissuade you. Buckwheat’s smoke-cooked meats, side dishes, and cobbler all are first rate.

Pitmaster Dewayne Jones (who’s been called Buckwheat since he was a child) says he serves “competition style” pulled pork, ribs, and brisket. (He does compete in BBQ tournaments.) For those of us who step into his restaurant for a meal, that means great motley heaps of pulled pork that is lean but lasciviously moist, velvety brisket, tender ribs, and even a few colorful oddities such as BBQ nachos and BBQ tacos. Among side dishes, the locally essential hash on rice is meaty, bright, and a little bit sweet — perfect on the side of pork. Mac ‘n’ cheese is butter-rich and super cheesy. Raw fries, which in fact are thick-sliced potato chips, go well with just about anything.

Much of Buckwheat’s business is take-out, but for people dining in, there’s a pan of fruit cobbler or banana pudding, access to which comes with the meal. Help yourself. Apple cobbler is terrific, its apples home-style firm, its pastry rich and melt-in-the-mouth elegant: a beautifully balanced dessert.