Memorable | One of the Best
Review by: Jane & Michael Stern
A picture of Sugar, the proprietors’ late bulldog, adorns a menu on the outer wall of the tin trailer that is the restaurant’s kitchen. The menu offers a roadside roster of burgers and fully-dressed green chile cheeseburgers (here known as Sugar Burgers), corn dogs, burritos, and of course, Fritos pie. Even a veggie burger.
The main reason to find Sugar’s is barbecue. Brisket is slow-cooked over applewood coals until pot-roast tender, juicy, and perfumed with smoke. There are two ways to have it: in a sandwich, veiled in a tangy red sauce, or wrapped in a tortilla with green chilies and cheese. We prefer the latter because, in our opinion, that sweet-tangy sauce on the sandwich distracts from the lovely, subtle taste of the brisket.
On the other hand, the barbecue burrito is an inspired creation: thick shreds of beef accented by the snap of peppers and even further enriched by melted cheese. We could eat these burritos all day long. But alas, where we live, they are nothing but a memory. Such a fine cheap-eats meal is an only-in-New-Mexico experience.
Other notable menu items include ribs and sausage. Dinners come with Texas toast and such sides as pickly potato salad and beans laced with shreds of brisket.
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