Sugar’s

Review by: Michael Stern

A picture of Sugar, the proprietors’ late bulldog, adorns a menu on the outer wall of the tin trailer that is the restaurant’s kitchen. The menu offers a roadside roster of burgers and fully-dressed green chile cheeseburgers (here known as Sugar Burgers), corn dogs, burritos, and of course, Fritos pie. Even a veggie burger.

The main reason to find Sugar’s is barbecue. Brisket is slow-cooked over applewood coals until pot-roast tender, juicy, and perfumed with smoke. There are two ways to have it: in a sandwich, veiled in a tangy red sauce, or wrapped in a tortilla with green chilies and cheese. We prefer the latter because, in our opinion, that sweet-tangy sauce on the sandwich distracts from the lovely, subtle taste of the brisket.

On the other hand, the barbecue burrito is an inspired creation: thick shreds of beef accented by the snap of peppers and even further enriched by melted cheese. We could eat these burritos all day long. But alas, where we live, they are nothing but a memory. Such a fine cheap-eats meal is an only-in-New-Mexico experience.

Other notable menu items include ribs and sausage. Dinners come with Texas toast and such sides as pickly potato salad and beans laced with shreds of brisket.

What To Eat

BBQ Burrito

DISH
Brisket

DISH

Sugar’s Recipes

Discuss

What do you think of Sugar’s?

One Response to “Sugar’s”

Merv Ashby

December 23rd, 2007

Sugar’s in New Mexico was the highlight of my four-day driving trip to Santa Fe from Denver. It totally caught me by surprise! Our group of five, in two cars, stopped for lunch at this unlikely looking BBQ trailer across from the Rio Grande in late October. We had no expectations other than hoping for full stomachs.

We ordered, then began exploring the semi-abandoned lot, looking for a bathroom and a place to sit. We found a magnificent old apple orchard loaded with fresh crispy fruit. We were given laughing permission to take all the fruit we wanted (organic and complete with worms). We then dined, under a heavily laden apple tree, on the best BBQ I’ve ever had the pleasure to sink my teeth into. Mind you, I have never enjoyed BBQ that came out of a foam take-out box, prior to this exquisite experience.

Reply

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