Memorable | One of the Best
Fry Bread House
Review by: ayersian
The first time we tried an Indian, or frybread, taco was at an actual Native American powwow that we stumbled upon near the border of North Dakota and Manitoba. The taco was a plate-sized circle of fried dough piled with ground beef, lettuce, tomatoes, cheese, and sour cream: interesting, but not something we’d go out of our way to sample again. Since that time, we have sampled frybread tacos across several western states, but most have paled in comparison to Fry Bread House in Phoenix (note one additional exception: Salt Lake City’s Navajo Hogan, recommended to us by WanderingJew!).
Bruce Bilmes’ sister Pete introduced us to this unassuming, one-room café during a marathon one-day food tour of the capitol city. Fry Bread House is run by Cecelia Miller of the Sonoran desert Tohono O’odham Nation, and she and her all-Native American staff serve the lightest, airiest fry bread we’ve had. One writer likened it to New Orleans beignets, and we would agree as long as said scribe were thinking of the heavenly, feather-light beignets at Metairie’s Morning Call as opposed to the weighty, powdered-sugar-smothered dunkers at the French Quarter’s Café du Monde.
Miller tops the pillowy fry bread with savory refried beans, green chile beef, onions, lettuce, cheese and sour cream, while the dessert version is sprinkled simply with powdered sugar. Drizzling it with honey or homemade chocolate sauce are certainly acceptable options. Fry Bread House is one of five winners of the 2012 America’s Classics Awards from the James Beard Foundation, which only confirms what most Roadfooders have known all along: Miller’s fry bread creations are truly regional, truly authentic, and truly delicious.
Directions & Hours
|Meals Served||Lunch, Dinner|
|Credit Cards Accepted||Yes|