Big Bad Wolf BBQ

I was lucky to accidentally come upon the Big Bad Wolf food truck, even luckier that it was early in the lunch hour and crowds had not yet begun to form. A handful of local customers who came to eat here (at al fresco picnic tables) or take meals elsewhere told me that long waits are not uncommon. All agreed that time spent was worthwhile for what they unanimously consider the best BBQ around. High praise, indeed, in a region where excellent BBQ is a given.

Ribs in particular are crazy good. They’re baby backs, which all too often are more about tenderness than taste. These are both: literally fall-off-the-bone easy-to-eat, and yet potent with the delirious fusion of sweet pork, smoke, and sauce.

Pulled pork is like that, too: velvet soft and not the least bit fatty, containing enough flavor in the meat itself that sauce — however good it is here — hardly matters.

Bologna is smoked, adding hickory savor to its inherent spiciness. In a sandwich with cheese, garnishes, and condiments, it is a mighty $4 meal to remember.

Unusual fried green tomatoes: sliced thin and fried until crisp all around, they feature just a thin ribbon of tangy fruit within the breading. A joy to munch, and just right with anything else on the menu.

Note that when the truck is parked along the highway — generally from March into October — it open Wednesday through Friday from 11 to 6 and Saturday from 11 to 4. Catering is available year-around.