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Of course a warm biscuit is good with jam, its buttermilk tang so well complemented by fruit’s sweetness. Jam from a supermarket jar is fine, but to taste this dish at its very best you need to go to Nashville and the Loveless Cafe, where oven-hot biscuits keep coming as long as you can eat them. Along with the biscuits are dishes of house-made jam (which are formally preserves because they have plenty of actual fruit in them). Peach, the color of summer sunset, is deeply fruity, as is strawberry. Blackberry preserves are more tart – great on biscuits as well as toast, waffles, or ice cream. The flavor punch of biscuits and jam is an ideal balance for a slice of rank country ham with red-eye gravy.